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Fabbrica di San Martino, Colline Lucchese Bianco, 2017 (750ml)
Though he never had any formal training, Beppe Ferrua still manages to produce wines that are intensely drinkable. This blend of Trebbiano, Vermentino and Malvasia spends a couple of days on skins before spending a year in large format oak. This isn't a whispy white; instead it shows salinity alongside wild herbs and spice.