Martin Muthenthaler, Grüner Veltliner 'Spitzer Graben', 2017 (750ml)

Martin was a trained mechanic, not a winemaker, but his open heart and untrained-intuition allowed him a fresh perspective of this staunchly traditional region. He started farming his grandparents three hectares of terraced vines in 2006 >>>
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<<< above the cold Spitzer Graben valley, to the west of the Danube. Adding to the backbreaking labor of farming the Wachau's steepest and highest vineyards, he converted them to organic farming, an utter rarity here. His wont are low alcohol, high acid wines, never lacking complexity, but convey a delicacy often missing from the powerhouse style prevalent among his peers. A snapshot of the Spitz, all soif, this is a wine of silky texture but so much underlying flavor, you have to sit with it for a moment, let the experience permeate your per-conceived idea of what Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau tastes like. Green apple dips below mentholated, pristine, alpine tinged aromatics, all encompassed by a huge amount of taught structure and long lime-y finish, over delivers for the price.